A Weekend in Dunga Gali Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

On Friday 13 July 2012 we set off along the old road from Islamabad to Murree and then onto Dunga Gali, which was to be our base for the weekend. We arrived during the late afternoon; just enough time to walk a short distance along the famous Pipeline Trail. Birds were few and far between but we had the chance to look down on several SLATY-HEADED PARAKEET as they flew in the valley below.

As we took tea on the balcony of our accommodation we watched a group of ASIAN HOUSE MARTIN hawking insects overhead and an ASHY DRONGO caught flies but using a different technique. Movement in the tree opposite drew our attention and we were rewarded with superb views of a stunning male GOLDEN ORIOLE. On the lawn of the house a HOOPOE probed for insects and a BLUE WHISTLING THRUSH called from the garden of a nearby property. A bird with an improbably long tail crash-landed into the Golden Oriole tree. This gawky aviator turned out to be a YELLOW-BILLED BLUE MAGPIE and who could criticise its clumsiness when having to drag such a tail behind.

We decided on an early night, as the following day would begin for us at 0400 hours. And it did as we emerged before dawn. Immediately, we heard a Nightjar species and its call identified it as a GREY NIGHTJAR that is also known as Jungle Nightjar. I replayed its call on my iPod to confirm its identity and a second bird began calling, a life tick and number 305 on my Pakistan Bird List.

The Domain of the Koklass Pheasant Mrs Islbirder

We had read the literature and had been informed that our next species began calling pre-dawn, usually from the vantage point of the bough of a tree. There was silence until about 0500 hours when it was light. First one and the at least a dozen KOKLASS PHEASANT uttered their distinctive call that sounds like a cockerel in need of a throat lozenge. The whole valley appeared full of their calls but we could not put the bins on a single individual. However, there was no doubt this was Pakistani Tick number 306. Within 30 minutes all of the KOKLASS PHEASANT had become quiet and that was the last we were to hear of them until 0500 hours the following day.

As it became lighter a long line of LARGE-BILLED CROW made its way along the valley presumably stirring from their roost. A high-pitched whistle caught our attention and the origin was one of several STREAKED LAUGHINGTHRUSH that we saw. We noticed a family party of SCALY-BELLIED WOODPECKER and their vocalisations were both loud and varied.

Rock Bunting Zill Niazi

An ORIENTAL TURTLE DOVE alighted in a nearby tree and allowed us to inspect its intricate plumage. From one of the wires stretched across the valley a superb male ROCK BUNTING sang to proclaim his territory. We saw three species of Tit during the morning: the RUFOUS-NAPED TIT, SPOT-WINGED TIT and GREEN-BACKED TIT, all in good numbers but less so in relation to Rufous-naped Tit. From the top of a dead tree a VERDITER FLYCATCHER launched itself after flying insects before returning to its preferred vantage point. A bird we had seen during our previous visit in early June put in a repeat performance in the form of a beautiful male BLUE-CAPPED ROCK THRUSH in full song.

Before we knew it breakfast beckoned and a refreshing cup of tea. Following nourishment we decided to ascend Mukshpuri and started the more difficult of the two ascents. Close to the small freshwater reservoir we marvelled at a party of LONG-TAILED MINIVET and the vivid scarlet plumage of he males. Following that we saw not another bird as we climbed up the steep path. As we got around halfway up the clouds started to roll in and the top of Mukshpuri was shrouded in mist. It was either the concern of being without a guide and becoming lost or me being sadly and pathetically out of shape persuaded us to retrace our steps downhill.

During our successful ascent in April 2011 we had seen some exciting birds in the form of ROSY PIPIT and SPOT-WINGED GROSBEAK, the latter was a pair; the female in its spotted plumage looking nothing like the dapper male. Back to July 2012 and we found a bird wave just before entering Dunga Gali once more. There were a dozen or so LONG-TAILED MINIVET, a good flock of RUSSET SPARROW, the occasional GREAT BARBET, the incessant calls of which reminded us of gulls at the seaside. A couple of WHITE-CHEEKED NUTHATCH called like a child’s trumpet and BLUE WHISTLING THRUSH were numerous.

We found another bird wave as the road poetically named Wisteria wound its way down to the bazaar. In this group were numerous SPOT-WINGED TIT. More BAR-TAILED TREECREEPER than I have seen in one place, many adults feeding juveniles. A smart looking male GREY BUSHCHAT was perched on a small shrub. In the trees above we picked out a few more RUFOUS-NAPED TIT and several WESTERN CROWNED WARBLER. However, by far the most numerous species was the GREEN-BACKED TIT.

As we reached the superb café at the start of the Pipeline Trail the heavens opened and torrential rain fell to the accompaniment of thunder and lightning all afternoon until early evening. That put the kybosh on any hopes of visiting the main man-made reservoir for some evening birding. So we drink iced coffees and ate some of the wonderful food offered at the café then spent the afternoon indoors watching the amazing storm from indoors. This was followed by another early night and a ridiculously early start the next morning.
 

At 0400 hours on Sunday 15 July 2012 the weather was fine and as the darkness withdrew there was little sign of the previous day’s deluge. There were no Grey Nightjar calling today and again, it wasn’t until 0500 hours that the male KOKLASS PHEASANT began vocalising, about a dozen of them. There were several STREAKED LAUGHINGTHRUSH singing along the sides of the Pipeline Trail and in the distance I could hear the distinctive call of a BROWNISH-FLANKED BUSH WARBLER.

As the sun began to rise more birds sang. The calls of SLATY-HEADED PARAKEETS emanated from the valley below and several of these magnificent birds were seen in flight. There were at least ten SCALY-BELLIED WOODPECKER in a small area and a female landed on the path only a few feet away. The male ROCK BUNTING again sang from his perch and later he and his mate fed three juveniles. A VERDITER FLYCATCHER put in an appearance as did an adult female CHESTNUT-BELLIED ROCK THRUSH that obligingly perched on the very top of a Blue Pine. The white patches behind its ear coverts are diagnostic.

I stood in one spot for about an hour watching a wave of feeding birds. There were two ASHY DRONGO and huge numbers of Tits; by far the most common was SPOT-WINGED TIT, followed by GREEN-BACKED TIT and far fewer RUFOUS-NAPED TIT. ROCK BUNTINGS were again in evidence. A female BROWN-FRONTED WOODPECKER climbed a pine and a score of WESTERN CROWNED WARBLER fed voraciously on the plethora of insects.

My 307^th bird in Pakistan appeared in the form of a glorious male SPECTACLED FINCH. It was plum-brown on the upperparts, its head being darker and contrasted against the pale face mask that was white around the eyes but a pinkish colour towards the edges. The upper breast was dark but diffused into a reddish colour and then off-white underparts. Its bill was stout and the black wings contrasted against the white wing bar and with the edging to the tertials. Spectacled Finch is an impressive species that had been high on my ‘wants list’.

Another numerous bird species within this wave was BAR-TAILED TREECREEPER and I counted at least 16 but there were probably more. All this against the background and continuous sound of GREAT BARBET, what a fabulous place! However, the most colourful birds had to be the pair of LONG-TAILED MINIVET. It had been a wonderful weekend and three new species on my Pakistan List and all of them Lifers!